NEW YORK ― For many Koreans, "sannakji" is a special delicacy. There's nothing like devouring a stamina-boosting baby octopus that's perfectly seasoned with sesame oil.
But apparently, there's something about this traditional dish that got the world's largest animal rights group squirming ― the fact that the ocean animal is alive, or at least looks to be.
"The arms of octopuses are sheared off bit by bit, and the animals are served and consumed while they're still alive and writhing in agony ... They try desperately to crawl away, only to be dropped back onto the burning surface again and again."
This is how People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) describes the way sannakji is served at two Korean restaurants ― Sik Gaek and East Seafood ― in New York. And many other New Yorkers seem to view it the same way as PETA says it has been "flooded with complaints, e-mails and phone calls" from people concerned about the restaurants' practice of animal cruelty.
Taking matter into their own hands, two dozen PETA members staged a protest in front of the Korean eateries late last month, waving pickets that said "Octopus: Dismembered ALIVE."
The group even called on Queens District Attorney Richard Brown's office to file charges against restaurants that prepare and serve live animals.
"Octopuses are complex, intelligent animals who have a rich life, the ability to learn quickly from observation, and highly evolved brains similar to those of vertebrates. They possess sophisticated nervous systems and experts agree that they feel pain," according to PETA.
But for the Korean restaurants, the sudden cloud of controversy is only baffling.
"Sannakji is part of Korean culture," said a representative of Sik Gaek. "All this attention and criticism seems over the top. Besides, the octopus isn't technically alive."
He's right. Sannakji is killed before being served but the animal's nerve activity is what keeps the tentacles writhing on the plate.
"There's nothing barbaric about eating what's already dead," the official said.
Will Son of East Seafood argued against PETA's protest, too.
He said everyone has the right to choose his or her own food and if they don't like it, simply don't eat it. But for those who appreciate sannakji, the dish will remain on the menu.
Whether it be a clash of culture or clash of taste, the standoff between PETA and Korean businesses is expected to continue as the animal rights group is calling on more people to speak out against sannakji.
"Please join PETA in insisting that these restaurants take live animals off their menus for good," PETA wrote on its site, providing mailing addresses of the two businesses at the center of attention.